Dining under duress (a bold survival tale)

Dining under duress (a bold survival tale)

It is a great stereotype (although no less true for it) that it’s difficult to get a bite to eat anywhere in France without having to share the experience with a dog. They lounge about in dining rooms, cuddle in the crooks of arms, wag appreciatively in the presence...
Knives for the ages

Knives for the ages

Among the reliquaries and instruments of the kitchen, nothing is as sacred to a cook as his or her knives. Ask the right sort of question, and you’ll get entire doctoral-level disquisitions on the varying benefits of steels (e.g. 1080 carbon versus 440C stainless),...
An (un)familiar Parisian street corner

An (un)familiar Parisian street corner

It was early. But not too early to be tucking into a plate of toasted country bread, béchamel, bacon, and cheese. Nor too early to be on my second cup of coffee. The rain had stopped, leaving the pavement damp and little bits of cold March sunshine reflecting in the...

Dumplings galore

Gunpowder and paper are fine and all, but when I’m in a certain sort of mood, I think that one of the greatest contributions China has made to the world is something far more banal, and far more delicious: the dumpling. They come in many shapes and flavors,...

Xiao Wang’s Ribs

I write today to praise the pork rib. But not any pork rib. Oh no. You see, I have had many pork ribs. I have cooked many pork ribs. Hell, I have donned the vestments of the porcine canonical priestly class and worshiped at the altar of the pig. But, never before have...